A RELAXING WEEKEND RETREAT IN KITZBÜHEL, TYROL (SUMMER 2020)
Austria Summer Holidays
We teamed up with Visit Tirol to get a feel for what it's like to visit Austria for a summer holiday and to promote some of the best things to do in Kitzbühel in the summer months. As always, all views presented in this article are our own.
A wall of fog swallows all that surrounds us as our chairlift glides up the steep mountain slope. Even the vibrant green alpine grass fades into grey below our feet before we drift into an empty, calm whiteness. The remaining sounds of cars and voices gently fall silent behind us until everything is peaceful. I put my arm around Mandy's shoulder and take in a deep breath. It almost feels like we are the last two people on Earth as we leave behind the hustle of everyday life. In that instant, I slip into weekend mode.
Below our dangling feet, a concert of cowbells begins to ring out in the mist; quiet at first, but gaining in intensity, until finally, we are completely immersed in this otherworldly acoustic landscape on the "Bichl Alm".
This experience may not sound like your classic summer holiday. But for us, a relaxing long-weekend in Kitzbühel, Tyrol is precisely what we need to reset after a busy few months of London life.
Kitzbühel in the Summer Time
Tucked between towering alpine peaks, Kitzbühel lies in a quiet valley in the eastern region of Tyrol, Austria. The town has gained itself a reputation as a paradise for winter sports dating back to the late 19th century but remains to be somewhat less known as a summer destination. That being said, Kitzbühel offers terrific opportunities for nature lovers, athletes, foodies and cultural explorers alike. It's the perfect place to escape the grind of city life and swap the stifling summer heat for a breath of fresh air.
As a couple, we opt to take a laid-back approach to exploring all that Kitzbühel has to offer and to frame our trip as a relaxing weekend retreat. While I'm tempted to tackle some of the more challenging hiking and mountain biking trails, I decide that's something better saved for a solo trip. This time around, we're taking it easy and enjoying Kitzbühl as a couple.
How to get to Kitzbühel
Perhaps the easiest way to get to Kitzbühel from international destinations is via Munich International airport, roughly 120KM away. You could also try Innsbruck (95 km) or Salzburg (80 km).
We're all about using public transport where possible, but we think for a trip like this, you will be much better off renting a car. While Kitzbühel does have a train station and local buses/taxis, the schedules are not frequent enough to be convenient for travel. We picked up a car at the airport in Munich and drove down to Kitzbühel from there. Once you get past Munich, the drive very quickly becomes stunningly scenic as you hit the alps.
If you do decide to drive - avoid getting fined. Make sure to pick up an Austrian Vignette (toll sticker) from any of the rest stops before you cross the border to Austria. Rest stops selling them are marked with a "vignette" icon on the German Autobahn signs. If you can stay off the main highways, you won't need one, but I suggest picking one up either way. A ten-day sticker will only cost around 10 Euros.
Where to Stay in Kitzbühel
Accommodation styles range from luxury hotels to managed apartments and traditional Tyrollean guest rooms in rustic farm-houses on the outskirts of town. Kitzbühel is a fantastic destination for all types seeking an Austrian summer holiday. Have a look at prices and hotels below.
Our recommendation: Unterlietenhof - A Beautiful Farm House Overlooking Kitzbühel
A warm glow fills our guest room as the morning sun creeps over the alpine ridges outside. Mandy is still fast asleep, but the delightful scent of fresh coffee beckons me, and I can no longer resist. Old wooden floorboards creak under my feet as I make my way downstairs towards the dining room. The whole building is newly renovated, but the style stays true to its classical Tyrollean roots. Beautiful wood-panelled walls line the corridors and communal areas. The furniture is hand-crafted, and the decor not so subtly hints at the farming history of this guest house.
Our host, Teresa, pops her head from the dining room to let me know she's prepared a breakfast table for us outside if we want it. The morning haze hasn't entirely burned off yet, and it provides a stunning atmosphere looking into the town below. I sip my coffee and half-heartedly browse through the local morning paper that one of the kids has brought me while I wait for Mandy to roll out of bed. I can't think of a more serene way to start my day.
The guest house, Unterlietenhof is located on the sunny south-facing slopes to the north of Kitzbühel and overlooks the town. It's family-run and still operates as a small dairy farm. Breakfast is included in the service, and all the products served are either from the farm itself or locally sourced. From the milk, butter cheese and eggs, to the bread, jam and even the honey - nothing has travelled more than a few kilometres, other than perhaps the coffee.
The owners, Anton and Teresa, go above and beyond to make your stay in Tyrol relaxing, enjoyable and memorable. We wholeheartedly recommend the Unterleitenhof as a genuine little gem to complete your trip to Kitzbühel in the summertime. The rooms come with en-suite bathrooms and include wifi. If you ask nicely, you might even get a little tour of the family dairy farm, which we highly recommend you do.
If you're interested in staying at the Unterleitenhof, check below for prices and availability.
What to do in Kitzbühel in the Summer?
The mountain sun has kissed our skin. Buzzing with bees, several types of colourful alpine flowers bloom brightly all down the trail from the Kitzbüheler Horn. Cattle graze along the open paths overlooking the valley, and in the distance, we spot a brilliant blue lake. I check my watch again — our flight back to London boards in nine hours. We decide to take the risk and make our way over a steep hill and back down to the Hornköpfelsee (lake). The reward is well worth the effort. We have the entire lake to ourselves, and the peaks we've just descended from are perfectly mirrored in it. A cold-water spring creates a refreshing pool and offers the perfect spot to kick off our hiking boots for a quick break before heading back down the mountain in the cable car. There's even time for a well earned post-hike roast before driving to the airport — a Perfect Sunday.
Hike the trails around Kitzbühel:
Kitzbühel offers over 1000km of hiking trails for all abilities. Many of the ski lifts and cable cars operate year-round meaning even the casual hiker can explore the stunning views from the peaks surrounding Kitzbühel. The trails are well maintained and signposted with varying degrees of difficulty, so finding your way isn't too tricky. You can use this handy map to plan your route. The tourism board also offers a whole load of free guided hiking tours. If going it alone isn't your thing, it's well worth considering one of these guided hikes around Kitzbühel. Lift tickets are generally available for purchase at the stations.
Parking Tip: If you use the lift's carpark in the summer, you can get your parking ticket validated at the station for free parking. Just bring it with you and ask at the ticket desk when you use the lift. They don't tell you this, so it's easy to end up paying a lot for parking every day.
We’ve picked three hikes to get you started. All of these are circuits, so you can walk back to your car without having to take a taxi or bus back to where you started.
Kitzbühler Horn - Mountain Pasture Circuit
This circuit has you taking the Hornbahn cable car to the peak of the Kitzbüheler Horn, and hiking mostly downhill through pastures and the beautiful alpine flower panorama. The mountain views are stunning on a clear day, and the trail takes you past the Hornköfl Lake, which offers the perfect spot for a picnic and a refreshing splash in the cold-spring Kneip-pool. The trail swings back around to the middle station of the Hornbahn, where you can take the cable car back down to the carpark. Use this map for a rough idea of the circuit, but cut out the last stretch to Lämmerbichlalm to make it roughly a two-hour walk.
Guided Sunset Hike
Every Friday evening, a group meets at the entrance to the Hahnenkammbahn valley station roughly one hour before sunset. The tour is free, but you do need to purchase your lift ticket if you want to join. We end up missing the guided tour ourselves and do a sunset walk of our own. That being said, we later bump into the group at the end of their hike. The guide is super friendly and invites us to join for a free round of sparkling wine which is part of the tour, should that help convince you.
Bichlalm - Hochetzkogel Panorama Circuit
This hike has you soaking in the views from the Hochetzkogel. The circuit takes between 90-120 mins to walk and rewards you with another stop at a refreshing cold-water Kneip pool to wade in. Take the Bichlalm chairlift right to the top, then follow the signs for the Panorama circuit.
Cow Warning: Many of the hiking trails throughout Tyrol run through land that belongs to cattle farmers. Cows are abundant, and you are bound to come across them. While they may look like docile creatures, and are generally quite friendly, they can seriously injure or even kill you. Be careful around them, and give them space. Mothers are very protective of their young, and bulls can be territorial. Either can become very dangerous if they charge or trample you...
eBike around Kitzbühel in the Summer
While I am still extremely tempted by the brand new downhill mountain biking run on the Hahnenkamm, we opt for something a little less punishing: eBiking! The adrenaline junkie in me hates to admit it, but eBiking is remarkably fun. It's a great way to take in the beautiful mountain scenes without having to be a seasoned athlete. You chose on what level the motor works and do the rest yourself. It levels the playing field and makes cycling much more of an accessible sport to most levels of fitness. It means both Mandy and I can handle the ups and downs that the mountain trails throw at us. Besides, there's something fun about getting up to speed on an e-bike.
We recommend taking a guided tour, so you don't have to concentrate on where you're going. For us, this experience is about being able to ride and take in the scene without planning the route. Our guide, Hansi, is exceptionally knowledgeable of the area and maps a road with us to fit our specs. On top of that, he's a local with a ton of cultural knowledge and passion for his home. He even helps us spot a few local celebs. Hansi is worth getting in touch with, and we honestly think he will make the process super easy and enjoyable for you. His pricing is based on the number of people in your group and how long you want to go.
If you choose to tough it out on your own, Sporthaus Etz in the town centre rents out eBikes, as do a few hotels in the area.
You can also go for an ebiking course if you feel you want to do a bit of formal learning first.
To contact Hansi Hagsteiner, shoot him an email!
Explore Kitzbühel & Visit the Farmer's Market
Every Saturday morning, there's a small farmer's market in the centre of Kitzbühel. If you want to fill your suitcase with sausages and local produce, this might just be the spot to start exploring the city. Of course, there's so much more. We love walking through the narrow streets of this town and marvelling at the architecture, some of which dates back to the middle ages when Kitzbühel was a mining town.
Kitzbühel Restaurants
Food - we love it and make it a central focus of our travels. As a mountainous region, the local culinary traditions in Tyrol have been formed by what's available: Fresh mushrooms, dairy, produce, meat and dough. Traditional Tyrolean dishes are generally simple, hearty and full of rich flavours. Make sure you get your hiking and biking miles in before hitting the plate, or you may just find yourself looking like a Tiroler Speckknödel by the time you're home.
Here are three fantastic restaurants to start you of on your trip to Kitzbühel:
Mocking
Perhaps the interior of Mocking says it all: Classic Tyrollean wood panelling and furniture, but with a modern feel. Mocking stays true to its Tyrollean roots. All ingredients are fresh, organic and locally sourced. But that doesn't mean you can't put a modern twist on what you serve. Every dish is artfully presented and offers as much of a feast for the eyes as it does for the palate. Mocking might be my favourite culinary experience in Kitzbuhel.
Address: Hahnenkammstraße 8, 6370 Kitzbühel
Hallerwirt
On a sunny evening, the terrace at Hallerwirt is the place to take in the peaceful mountain scenery all around you. It looks and feels like a family business: It's simple, down to earth, and the food is delicious. The focus is on locally sourced and organic ingredients. Hallerwirt also boasts an incredible wine list, as if the food isn't enough. If you happen to find yourself there during the "Steinpilz" season, I highly recommend their baked mushrooms and spinach ravioli with soft cheese.
After dinner, the chef and owner, Jürgen, comes out and greets us personally. Through some odd coincidence, we end up chatting about ice hockey, so he gifts us with two tickets to the Red Bull's Salute finals which he can't make. Our little conversations ends up leading to a brilliantly unexpected Saturday evening at an exciting hockey match.
Address: Oberaurach 4, 6371 Aurach bei Kitzbühel
Hotel Rasmushof
With a cosy Tyrolean interior like the one you will find at Rasmushof, we can't help but be enticed by a meal on the classic side. The fresh mountain air and a full day of activities inspire an appetite that only Tyrollean food can cure. It would be a shame not to indulge. The Tiroler G'Röstl at Rasmushof hits the spot. Perhaps not for everybody, but it wouldn't be complete without a refreshing Almdudler soda to wash it down.
Address: Hermann Reisch Weg 15, 6370 Kitzbühel
There's no other way to put it. Kitzbühel in the Summer is an excellent choice for a long weekend getaway. Fresh air, mountain views and cows for days make a delightful remedy for burn-out-city-life. We could easily make a week or two out of our stay. Despite wanting to stay for longer, we feel completely relaxed when it comes time to end our trip and fly back to life in London. If you decide to head out to Tirol for your Austria summer holiday, we would love to hear about your experience in the comments below. Do you have any recommendations for us for when we go back? Hit us up, please!
want to see more Kitzbühel? Check out our Austria Summer Scrapbook video
Disclaimer: You guessed it, we use affiliate links on this blog, and you will find some in this article. If you click through on these links, we may earn a small commission that helps keep Capturing Wanderlust up and running. The best part - it’s at no extra cost to you.
